Bellevue Hotel, Phoenix Court: Phoenix Rising

His heavy accent and rapid-fire reply, interjected with jovial laughter, make Executive Chef Cheong Kwan Loong of Phoenix Court an entertaining subject, albeit quite difficult to understand. Don’t be mistaken, however. His English may be lost to his audience but not his message — or his passion for food — especially when his award-winning culinary creations speak so eloquently for him. 

Appearing from behind the kitchen doors of Bellevue Hotel’s Phoenix Court, Chef Loong plops down on the table and wipes the stains from his spectacles with his equally stained apron, he mumbles his apologies and doesn’t waste any time getting down to business. “Please ask me a lot of questions,” he says with a smile.

Born and raised in Malaysia, Chef Loong has built an impressive career spanning over 30 years. His culinary passion found its roots working long hours in renowned hotels like Westin Philippine Plaza, the Tower Club, Shang Palace at Shangri-La Mactan and the American Club in Jakarta. His first job, he remembers, was spent as a kitchen helper, cutting meat and carving vegetables in Tai Hong Restaurant in Malaysia. 

Having perfected his kitchen skills and honing his impeccable palate, Loong has come a long way. Today, he still works in the kitchen but no longer as kitchen help. Rather, he puts on his toque as executive chef of Phoenix Court. 

Phoenix Court, Loong explains, has a special place in his heart because he considers it his pet project. From the layout of his kitchen to that of the dining hall, Loong took care of every detail and made sure that everything was executed according to his standards. 

On the onset, the restaurant looks like a typical Chinese restaurant with themes of red and gold echoing luck and prosperity, respectively. The interiors are a calming, muted palette of cream, punctuated with intricately carved wooden accents. At the center is the massive mural of a golden phoenix, a beautiful centerpiece (as well a conversation starter) by artist Gina Bocar. To complement the sophisticated surroundings, Chef Loong crafted a simple yet elegant menu. Among the dishes, the diner’s favorites — as well as the chef’s — are the delicate steamed dumplings with polonchay, Crispy Cereal Tiger Prawns, Two Variety of Chicken (Stuffed and Kong Po), and the Homemade Spinach Beancurd with Crispy Mushroom. And because they are handled by such expert hands, the simple, traditional Chinese dishes are elevated to a certain level of refined elegance, and every palate is sure to be pleased. Recently, Philippine Tatler hailed Phoenix Court as one of the Philippines’ best restaurants for 2011.

But more than the awards and accolades, Loong is delighted to see that his group of loyal customers is growing and that the fame of the Chinese restaurant is fast spreading by word of mouth. Ryan Chan, Bellevue marketing and communications director, shares in another interview that they were delighted — and equally surprised — that guests were now willing to take the once-dreaded trip to Alabang to feast at Phoenix Court. (Many large Chinese families take their Sunday pilgrimage to the restaurant, with the South Expressway now much improved.)

“When Phoenix Court first opened, only a few tables at a time were occupied,” Loong remembers. Today, it is quite a different story. It would be difficult — if not impossible — to get a table without reservations — especially on weekends and holidays. 

From a bare marble space, an elegant court of distinguished culinary stature has risen. Concluding the interview, Loong says, “(The restaurant has been successful because) this is my passion… My cooking comes from the heart.” And Phoenix Court echoes this conviction. 

First published in PeopleAsia Magazine
Photos courtesy of Bellevue Hotel