To shop and dine is divine! And this could not be more true, we discovered, during our heavenly three-day stay in Indonesia’s largest city and capital, Jakarta, where shopping and dining are both undoubtedly intense.
Home to an estimated 10 million people, the thriving megapolis is abuzz with Jakarta’s iconic ojeks (motorbycle taxis), bright orange bajajs (tricycle) and blue taxis. The People Asia team peered through the windows of the bus, amazed at the city that seemed so much like ours –– familiar yet new to our senses. Far-reaching skyscrapers, impressive monuments and expansive malls that can rival any world capital’s peppered the horizon.
Despite Jakarta’s awe-inspiring structures, what interests us travelers is its famous fiery sidewalk cuisine and its small, themed markets filled with priceless historical knick-knacks. According to our gracious guide Surjadjaja Tanudiredja –– more fondly called “Surya” meaning “sun” –– Jakarta’s rich cultural heritage finds its roots in the 14th century where it served as a major trading port. Apart from the trade of spices — it was strategically located along the Spice Route — Jakarta benefited greatly from the cultural exchange and became the melting pot of Chinese, Malaysian, Arabic, British and Dutch influences. Surya’s tales of Jakarta’s gastronomic superiority had us salivating but before making our way to some delicious local grub, Surya suggested that we first work up an appetite.
Shop, Shop and Away!
After having our dose of caffeine at the Grand Indonesia Mall –– the Indonesians do so love their Luwak coffee! –– the People Asia team bolted to Jalan Surabaya, the renowned flea market in Jakarta. When they say flea market, the Jakartans really mean antique market.
The vast 500-meter long street, lined with open air stalls overflowing with dainty knick-knacks, is one of the remaining themed flea markets in Jakarta and is the treasure trove of many art collectors, interior designers and historians. From delicate silver hair pieces adorned with precious stones befitting a princess to unpolished Javanese wood sculptures and even Arabic lamps that vendors claim to date back to the 17th century, the antique market is filled with curios and each has a story to tell. Vendors lure tourists and travelers with stories of where and how they came to have this piece of history in their hands. Fact or pure fiction, we don’t mind as we are charmed by their tales. Though there are undoubtedly pieces of dubious origin, most of the pieces are authentic, Surya claims. The Pinoy’s expert skill in haggling proves to be useful here as you can bring down the price of an “antique” to half. “Haggle –– with a passion!” Surya reminds us with a chuckle.
Apart from the overflowing curios, there are sections worth sifting through such as the Wayang “shadow” puppets store and the vintage record shop where, given a bit of time and patience, one can find a music gem like a first edition Johnny Mathis vinyl record.
Food... Glorious Food
After an hour of thoroughly scavenging through the shelves, baskets and boxes of oldies-but-goodies, we worked up a hefty appetite. I was tempted to buy the sweet-smelling banana fritters with powdered sugar and the pink-colored coolers called es campur (shredded ice topped with sweet beans and avocado, much like our sidewalk treats halo-halo and ice scramble), but Surya told us to save our appetites as he had a sumptuous feast in store for us.
And we weren’t the least bit disappointed. After sampling the Chinese cuisine the previous night at Raja Kuring, a former spice warehouse-turned-restaurant, we were ecstatic to finally have a taste of authentic Jakartan cuisine. At Tekko restaurant, located in west Jakarta, we were delighted with the venue’s burst of colors. Scarlet, emerald and gold lanterns hung from the ceilings and the colorful fare of krupuk (prawn crackers) and local delicacies in weaved baskets enticed us. The host lights up sparklers embedded in the husk of a young coconut to complete the truly festive ambiance.
We had a lot to celebrate, too, as spread out on the table were more than a dozen dishes of authentic Indonesian cuisine plated on wooden bowls and green palm leaves. Our gracious hosts made sure we had a dish from every imaginable food group and more! The feast included white clams with tauco sauce (kerang kepa tahu), chicken marinated with special Tekko’s sauce (ayam goring special Tekko), roasted and buttered prawns, crispy fried dilis and calamares.
With our stomachs grumbling, we took to the feast with much gusto. There were several dishes reminiscent of traditional Pinoy cuisine like the sop buntut, the Indonesian version of beef nilaga. But after sampling every dish on the table, the group concluded that Indonesian fare is definitely more robust.
Simple dishes like the crispy “flying” tilapia are paired with the spicy sambal, a thick, heavily spiced chili paste which is the same flavorful heat found in the tofu tahu goring (fried tofu). Fresh fish draped in a soft spicy curry was undoubtedly the group’s favorite. To temper the hot, spicy dishes, the kangkung hotplate with garlic in sweet oyster sauce soothed our palates as well as the satay in peanut sauce. Our marketing manager Ryan Calmante, on the other hand, preferred to cool his tongue by shoveling in more rice!
Surya beamed as he saw how enthusiastic we were and prodded us to eat with our hands, as this is how Indonesians truly enjoy their feasts.
Though rendered immobile after the decadent lunch, we found that we had a wee bit more space in our tummies for Es kelapa cincao, a dessert made from coconut meat and grass jelly.
After much debate –– which occurred over another sumptuous meal at Sari Ratu Restaurant with Jakarta-based Filipina Chris Kusuma, the group concludes that Jakarta cuisine should not simply be defined as spicy. Apart from the heat and bad traffic, Chris shares that “in Indonesia –– much like in the Philippines –– hospitality finds its way into every gracious plate.”
The textures and layers of heat and spices reflect the complex and multi-tiered culture of Jakarta. The cuisine also takes the best of outside influences and masterfully incorporates them into their dishes. What makes these dishes distinct, however, is the Indonesian generosity that is felt in every bite and that kick of heat. Food is a great reflection of history, and much like its history, the flavors of Jakarta are intense.
With our stomachs full and our wallets satisfyingly empty from the long day of dining and shopping, we retreat to our comfortable abode at the Le Grandeur with Surya’s words in mind. “In Jakarta, we have a lot to offer. We have variety… and variety is the spice of life.” I couldn’t have said it better.
First published in PeopleAsia Magazine
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