At first look, the clean sterile sights and sounds of Osaka’s cityscape of silver high-rises, quiet low-lying museums and well-groomed parks, with hardly a disturbance on their well-paved highways, paint a picture of a quiet suburban life (Osaka is considered “suburban” compared to its sister cities, Tokyo and Kyoto).
But maybe I had spoken too soon, because upon the dim of twilight, Osaka reverberates with a palpable electric buzz. As businessmen shed their conservative two button American suits, the city comes alive with the neon blink of downtown Dotonbori, chivalrous bow-tied taxi drivers, the stylish elite of anime-looking characters on their way to the nearest pachinko parlor or karaoke joint, and the scent of soothing ramen and takoyaki batter wafting through the streets. With all your senses on overdrive, you realize that there is much more than meets the eye here at Japan’s water metropolis, Osaka.
After three highly fascinating days, I think I can help future visitors with some must do’s and must try’s, must eats and must sees in this city of bridges and subways.
Osaka Castle: Majestic Oasis
On our first day of adventure, we were greeted by our gracious hosts Shinichiro Takeuchi of Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau; Tomoyuki Nagao, Manager of Philippine Airlines (PAL) Osaka District; and Lorelei D. Cruz, Administrative Officer from the Department of Tourism at world-renowned Ana Crowne Plaza. Together with our intimate group of five including Mayette Casanova, Corporate Sales Manager of PAL, we were whisked away to Osaka Castle.
First built in 1585 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (a daimyo during the Sengoku period who unified the political factions of Japan), the lavish Osaka Castle is reputed to be unparalleled in the country. Osaka Castle, which sits at the center of a sprawling 106.7-hectares of ground, is a resplendent and shining example of history, with its elegant architecture and gold-tipped emerald roof, which one immediately sees from the bottom of the hill. While the exterior of Osaka Castle glorifies its ancestry, the interiors are all modernity, renovated and transformed into a fully air-conditioned museum. The eight floors chronicle the life and legacy of Hideyoshi, as well as the battles during the Sengoku (the warring states) period.
From one grandiose historical landmark to another, we proceeded to The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, an inconspicuous museum located at the heart of Nakanoshima Park. The museum showcases 2,700 artifacts including two national treasures and 13 important cultural properties. Ironically, the museum has just two Japanese pieces. A plate is not just a plate and a vase is not just a vase, we learned.
Tenjin Matsuri Festival: Time to Party!
Having a history of more than 1,000 years, the Tenjin Matsuri, which is one of the three greatest festivals of Japan and also the world’s greatest boat festival, is a summer festival dedicated to Michizane Sugawara, deified as the god of learning and art. The festival is divided into two parts; the land parade where some 3,000 people dressed in the imperial-court style of the 8th-12th centuries participate, and the boat procession, where the same 3,000 people board some 100 boats from the Tenmabashi Bridge and sail upstream.
And lucky for us the starting point of the parade was right outside the museum. Leading the land procession are the hypnotic beats of the moyoshidaiko, drums played by scarlet-cap wearing Ganji or “praying people.” Following the scarlet-caps are a procession of long-nosed goblins, dragons, virgins and dames as well the spirit of Sugawara enshrined in a beautiful mikoshi, a portable Shinto shrine.
Proceeding to the Okawa River where the boat procession is to take place, we were amazed at the sheer thousands of cheering spectators. The lights of the boat procession and umbrella of astounding fireworks served as a romantic backdrop. Thankfully, we had reserved ticket seats and were able to enjoy an unobstructed view of the procession while joyfully munching on our packed lunches, lovingly prepared by Takeuchi.
On an important side note, Osaka is known as the “nation’s kitchen” or the city that never stops eating. As testament to their gastronomic superiority, their battle cry in this side of Japan is actually “kuidaore” which translates to “Eat yourself into ruin.” Before leaving Osaka, you must, as in must try their legendary street foods: takoyaki (deep fried octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes filled with pork, squid, shrimp, shredded cabbage or whatever ingredient you wish). For the best okonomiyaki in town, you must try President Chibo Dotonbori. If you wish to partake of a traditional Osakan meal, go to Hana-Goyomi Restaurant at Swissotel where their superb display leaves one drooling. Also try the restaurant Etsu, which offers incredibly delicious low-calorie buffets. “Low-calorie” and “buffet” are two words I never expected to lump together but apparently in Japan they are a winning combination!
Floating Garden Observatory & Lumi Deck
On our second day of adventure, though still groggy from last night’s festivities, we were only too excited, delirious with glee actually, to visit the Floating Garden Observatory.
At a towering height of 173 meters above ground, the Floating Garden Observatory illustrates mankind’s obsession and curiosity with reaching the heavens. We took a vertigo-inducing elevator ride up to the 40th floor and another escalator ride to the donut-shaped skywalk. The Observatory to Osaka is what the Empire State building is to New York. This skyscraper of modernity offers a truly exceptional 360-degree panoramic view of the high-rise buildings, waters and bridges of Osaka. This could definitely be one of the most romantic places in the world, I thought. Osakans too had this in mind when they created a special niche for lovers called the “Lumi Deck.” This ledge, surrounded by a gate of heart shaped locks called the Fence of Vows, is where couples can profess their “eternal love.”
After grabbing another eight-course meal at the observatory’s restaurant Sangu (Oh how the Osakans love their dining rituals!), we swooshed back down the 40 floors. But though our feet were firmly planted on the ground, our heads were still somewhere lost in the clouds… especially fantasizing about our next destination, the Osaka Aquarium.
Kaiyukan: Under the Sea
The Osaka Aquarium is what little girls who watched little mermaid like me could only wish for. Kaiyukan, which means “playing in the sea pavilion” is located at the waterfront of Osaka Bay, next to the Tempozan Ferris Wheel, which was considered the largest in the world at 112 meters high until it was eclipsed by the London Eye in 1999.
Kaiyukan boasts of eight grand floors that cover approximately 286,000 square feet; holds 11,000 tons of water; and accommodates 27 tanks, 16 main exhibits, and 580 different kinds of marine life from the Pan Pacific Volcanic Zone. From sea otters to giant spider crabs, nothing compares to the pure awesomeness of standing before Kaiyukan’s prized whale sharks in the Pacific Ring Tank. It is the largest tank at 30 ft deep and houses all creatures that could be found on the ocean waterbed: hammerhead sharks, starfish, gigantic manta rays, spider crabs and adult whale sharks which measure an astonishing five meters in length. The experience became surreal especially when the whale sharks passed by my window. If wasn’t for the 12 inches of acrylic glass separating us, I would have thought I could very well touch them.
To Other Adventures
From big adventures to small adventures – raiding Daiso (Osaka’s 100 yen shops), Don Quijote, and Shinsaibaishi shopping center, what can be concluded is that there are too many things so fascinating about Osaka. The two day, three night weekend Swingaround Osaka package is simply not enough.
“But it’s a start!” adds Mayette and we all agree. Aside from being the only airlines to offer a Swingaround package in Osaka, the strength of Philippine Airlines’ weekend getaway package is that it is a convenient DIY type of trip, allowing you to map out your activities and freely explore the niches of Japan’s city of water at your own time and pace. The Ana Crowne Plaza, PAL’s only hotel partner for the package, ensures a truly memorable stay with their world class service and modern amenities. “Another airline offers daily trips to Osaka, (but) PAL is the only airline that offers business class section,” adds PAL’s VP for marketing support Felix Cruz.
“This is the life!” exclaims Mayette, right before she belts out her winning note. It is our last day and we’ve chosen to close our incredible trip with a bang as we gather in one of Osaka’s karaoke joints called the Big Echo. (The Filipino’s love for karaoke breaks boundaries yet again.)'
And as we chant whatever decipherable syllable we could catch from Takeuchi’s choice of Ulfuls’ song called Osaka Strut, a few catchy lyrics strike a chord in us: “Anywhere else seems like a foreign country, OSAKA STRUT! Keep on strut, here there’s all sorts of stuff to do.” With mocktails and Asahi beer in our hands, we toast to a city that was able to stretch a day beyond 24 hours and still left us wanting more. A toast to you Osaka, till we meet again!
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